Any advice?

[FraserG]

So I need to replace the front brakes on the YBR (still saving up for the bigger bike )  and am thinking of doing it myself because:
1) The bike is getting on now and saving up for a bigger bike means it will soon not be needed
2) I have a car so if I feck this up it's not the end of the world
3) Good experience gainer by spending a weekend doing the job
4) It seems like it'll be fun - I've been spending far too much time on the computer at a weekend over winter so getting into the garage will be a good change of scenary
5) I still want the bike to get to work pending the bigger bike and I want it to do so safely, rather than risk something going wrong

Now, having never done brakes before, I thought I'd check with you experienced lot for what I should, or should not, be doing.

For reference, I'll be replacing the disc and the pads.

I have a toolbox with tools in it which I use for the general maintenance (chain adjustment, etc.), but should I be looking at any specialty tools for this job? I have allen keys, spanners, screwdrivers, hammers and tape measures, but is there anything else?

And finally, any do's or don'ts with this/anecdotes that might assist me in the job?

[Kingy]

Piece of piss. 

Tools - Whatever allen keys/ hex bolts / socket set / copperslip / rag / bar or prybar or hammer handle (to manoeuvre pistons) / plasters / whisky (medicinal) / beer / cigar 


Disk bolts off/ bolts on.  

Brakes - Undo what is necessary to take pads out of caliper. Clean caliper. Make sure the pistons are well back if they are protruding so you can put the new pads (which will be meatier) in their place. Copperslip or similar on the back of the pads so they will release in the future. Re-assemble (remembering anti vibration spring if there is one). 

Oh, and don't be tempted to squeeze the brake lever whilst the pads are out. 


If all else fails have your trusty hammer to hand to fix it real good. 


Don't worry - If you feck it up brakes are over rated anyway. 

[FraserG]

(02-23-2017, 12:08 PM)Kingy Wrote: Oh, and don't be tempted to squeeze the brake lever whilst the pads are out. 

That wasn't a temptation until you mentioned it.....

(02-23-2017, 12:08 PM)Kingy Wrote: Don't worry - If you feck it up brakes are over rated anyway. 

I find the bumper of the car in front is usually the most effective method of slowing down, but apparently good brakes are necessary to pass an MOT.

The first three words however give me hope that I'm not stumbling down a dark path of danger though

[RogerC]

If you're still not into it yet a good idea ,as you appear uncertain of the what/how etc..... take photographs from the start up to the point where the pads are out then simply run the photos backwards until everything looks....'and is' as it should be.

Like Kingy said it really is a piece of pi55....but if never done before can be a little daunting especially as it's brakes. Worry not FG you'll be fine.

[FraserG]

(02-23-2017, 03:05 PM)RogerC Wrote: If you're still not into it yet a good idea ,as you appear uncertain of the what/how etc..... take photographs from the start up to the point where the pads are out then simply run the photos backwards until everything looks....'and is' as it should be.

Haven't started yet, plan to begin Saturday morning and have the whole weekend to go slow and steady with it. Hadn't considered photos, will make sure I have the camera charged up tonight thanks

[Kingy]

You use a camera? A box that ONLY takes photographs. Where do you live? The 1990's? 

[FraserG]

(02-23-2017, 03:33 PM)Kingy Wrote: You use a camera? A box that ONLY takes photographs. Where do you live? The 1990's? 

Not true, it also does video! If you're really unlucky I'll record the whole thing (painfully slow) and upload it for your viewing pleasure

I carry a box camera most places cause when I got it, I didn't have a phone capable of such things. Now I have a computer in my pocket that I don't like using cause I'd rather have 4 things doing one thing each very well, than 1 thing doing 4 things poorly. Though the camera on the phone is a good backup...

Plus, with a real camera, I have to make an active choice to upload the photos somewhere to be laughed at, as opposed to a phone which might accidentally post them on FB for ridicule. It's all about the protection

[Ghost2]

Don't forget to take Master cylinder cap off before you push the pistons back in and have rag around said cyl. in case brake fluid overflows. I would expect that there is a vid showing all the steps on t'internet.

[jollyjoiner]

Hahahaha pmsl, Kingy has mentioned loads of tools he doesn't have and only one that he does.......the hammer lol

But what everyone has put will see you through the job

[FraserG]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I am pleased to report that I am not yet dead. Please note the keyword is 'yet' as I'm still bedding the new brakes in and there's still room for it to all go wrong.

Started in the morning with a trip to Halfords to get some thread locking compound and copper grease and a new set of hex keys because I couldn't find mine (guess what turned up when I didn't need them yesterday...). Got the wheel off without difficulty, which was the easiest part of the day. Got the hairdryer from upstairs into the garage to warm up the bolts and giving them a gentle tap with the hammer before taking them off, then getting confused as the manual said to put the disc with the arrow of rotation but my disc didn't have one so just decided to go with the same way round as the previous one. Bolts on and left for the locking compound to set while I tackled the pads. Which turned into a 2 hour fight with the pistons.

The manual said 'finger pressure' would be necessary to push the piston back and, with it being a key braking component I was reluctant to do more than finger pushing. After about 90 minutes of trying every which way to 'finger push' the piston back, I got frustrated and attacked it with 2 screwdrivers, a hex key and one of the new pads and leveraged the bugger back in with force. It worked, the piston was back in and suddenly the new pads could fit. Huzzah. Then it took 30 minutes to get them to stay in and put the bracket back on the caliper which resulted in a lot of swearing. Mainly cause I couldn't see, it was dark by now and the lights in the garage were not provided adequate lighting so I had to get the other half to come hold the torch (which she was reluctant to do because of the shouting and swearing). Eventually got the pads to stay in and suddenly bish bash bosh the caliper was back together, the wheel was back on the forks and everything was done back up in a matter of minutes.

Took it for a little ride out yesterday morning just to check the wheel was straight and the brakes didn't disintegrate on the first use before riding into work today (where I am now sat, healthy and alive for the time being).

Lessons learnt:
Pistons understand nothing but a heavy hand.
Pads will dance in and out like pixies.
No amount of Spotify will calm the enraged mechanic when the piston will not respond to reasonable requests to move back into its f**king hole.

Thanks again for all the advice guys, hopefully the new disc and pads will last a nice long time and I can forget all about this by the time I next need it.... (more hopefully, I'll have a bigger bike next time I need to do this.....)

Have a good week!